It has been a while since I have posted a blog and I must say that it has been quite a hectic year so far for 2008. After being plucked from a true dream job and brought back down to earth with a crashing thud, writing about wine was the last thing on my mind. There are no hard feelings between both parties (former employer and employee), in fact a return option has been left open. So I am kind of on-the-fence about things.
That's when I started thinking about wine consumers I have encountered who have "trouble committing"... to wine varietals that is. Yes, fans. In these days of endless rows of Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots from just about every wine growing region that takes a seedling to produce flavors that fit almost anywhere in the grapes' (Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots,) profiles . . . whew!. . . . . . people still can't make up their minds which ones they like.
To all of you on-the-fencers out there, let me say this to you:
God Bless You! Yes, thank you for your hesitance. Thank you for encouraging even more diversity and choice on the wine shelves. Thank you for keeping the wine industry on their toes and away from the evil that is complacency.
This being said, this ambiguity can also take extreme forms. Everyone has heard of the wine drinkers who drink nothing but Cabernet Sauvignon whilst turning up their noses to Merlot claiming that Merlot is an unworthy wine. There are also those who say Cabernet Sauvignon is too strong, too bitter and thus prefer the suppleness and approachability of a Merlot, as if they were greeted on the palate like an old friend. (Interesting note: the CS extremists fall in love with Chateau Petrus, when they have had it, not knowing, that the dang thing is 100% Merlot!)
So what does one do to appease the likes of such camps and bring peace to the dining room? I give you the on-the-fence varietals: Malbec and Carmenere. I have discovered that these two varietals have been perfect olive branch holders when it comes to wine tasting events before the two camps start throwing wine charms at each other and start quoting Miles from "Sideways."
Malbec can have some of the suppleness and fruit-forward aspects of Merlot while still able to coat one's palate with ample tannin. Being a varietal that has spent a considerable part of its existence in Bordeaux where it played second fiddle to CS and Merlot. (I say second fiddle because in some sub-appelations, Merlot or Cab is king) It was used primarily as a blending grape and its much longer ripening time made it the ideal candidate to contribute acidity to the blend. Its time came when South America, namely Argentina, began cultivating the grape and gave it all the time it needed, letting Malbec shed its shy and plodding youth to reveal a brooding, sexy, almost hedonistic quality. Aromas of ripe fruit like dark cherries, plums and even blueberries could be found in a Malbec laced with bittersweet chocolate and hints of coffee and other earthier flavors.
Carménère is an edgier number that has quite a bit more zip on the palate. The Bordelais vintners gave up on Carménère almost 130 years ago, when they were willing to sacrifice the option of using the grape and uprooting the plants, if it meant keeping phyloxera away from their vineyards. Apparently, Carménère had an uncanny ability to attract the dreaded louse from miles away and thus destroying the vineyards of its owners. This varietal would have been extinct if it did not find its way to the isolated lands of Chile. Here the sandy soils makes life very difficult for the phyloxera louse and thus Carménère was freed from its curse and allowed to flourish. Earth tones dominate this lost Bordeaux varietal. It seldom makes a full-bodied wine but the the flavors of liqorice, coffee, dark chocolate and mushrooms make this wine an interesting drink. This helps those who are sensitive to tannin break out of the safe Merlot confines and enjoy some more tannic wines without being overwhelmed by them.
The next time, you have a get-together bring ample on-the-fence varietals to supplement your CS or Merlot preferences. So nobody has to say: "I'm not f***ing drinking any ......" (you-fill-in-the blank)
Peace be with you and Joyful drinking!
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
Thursday, November 15, 2007
Taking a Chance on Bubbles
Today, a little known shipment of 21 cases of wine showed up at my door step at work. It was a shipment I have been waiting for anxiously for a year and one that I hope would change the views of a very popular wine category in most wine galleries, Champagne.
Yes, folks. The "bubbly", the "sparklers" and to a certain segment of the population who only seems to be overtly concern with how much it costs rather than the taste of it, "Rapper Juice." (God, If they ever show one more bottle Cristal Champagne being horrendously misused for a multitude of ways except consuming responsibly, in an apparently over used motif signifying one's wealthy position in life, in a music video so help me I will buy a gun and proceed to Jackson Pollack my brain and skull all over my ceiling so I do not have to watch it)
(Proceeding to count to 20 and humming a zen tone)
Contrary to popular belief or should I say populist belief, good wine does cost money. But it doesn't have to cost you an arm and a leg. Established Champagne houses would have you believe that the best Champagnes come from the cellar not the vineyard. Supposedly, here in the dark recess of the ground, the wizards know as blending masters (BM) call upon ancient arts of alchemy to convert crushed grape juice from the noble Pinot Noirs, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay vines from a wide range of years to produce a true Champagne product. Okay, I admit that some of these BMs can produce good wine but there is only so much you can do with mediocre grapes. In short, the BM's job is to homogenize the wine, using the stronger years to hide the flaws of the weaker years thus maintaining a continuity of quality in the product that will perform reliably.
Contradicting what these massive champagne houses amazing PR machines have put out that blending non-vintages is the true nature of Champagne sparklers, why the heck are we paying $180-$250 a bottle for the vintage stuff like Dom Perignon and Veuve Clicquot Le Grande Dame etc.
I say thee nay! As a little green, dyslexic jedi grandmaster once said, "there is another."
The secret then is to track down the source of these better vineyards which provide the quality crop. The vineyards owned by generations of winemakers whose knowledge of how the terroir affects their crop in ways only time and patience can teach. Where flavor and longevity are as distinctive as the very years they are grown. Imagine paying a third what you would pay for a Tete Cuvee from the major negociant Champagne houses and getting the same quality sparkler and many times even surpassing those. My friends I give you the best values in Champagne, the "grower" Champagnes.
The names like Vilmart, Aubry, Pierre Peters, Gaston- Chiquet and Lallement to name a few were growers, whose champagnes I had been tracking since I learned of their existence over 5 years ago.
I actually had a friend take a Henri Billiot Cuvee Julie (named after HB's first grand child and was all 1999 fruit although it doesn't say on the bottle and was the first of his champagnes to actually see any oak aging.) to a party for Thanksgiving and opened it up next to 2 other big dogs the Cristal and the Dom Perignon P. The crowd favorite was the Billiot.
So I say we celebrate this coming holidays and New Year even though the dollar is tanking and gas will hit $100 a barrell. We never ever have to sacrifice hedonistic flavor and quality if you have Grower Champagnes in your hand. Cheers!
Yes, folks. The "bubbly", the "sparklers" and to a certain segment of the population who only seems to be overtly concern with how much it costs rather than the taste of it, "Rapper Juice." (God, If they ever show one more bottle Cristal Champagne being horrendously misused for a multitude of ways except consuming responsibly, in an apparently over used motif signifying one's wealthy position in life, in a music video so help me I will buy a gun and proceed to Jackson Pollack my brain and skull all over my ceiling so I do not have to watch it)
(Proceeding to count to 20 and humming a zen tone)
Contrary to popular belief or should I say populist belief, good wine does cost money. But it doesn't have to cost you an arm and a leg. Established Champagne houses would have you believe that the best Champagnes come from the cellar not the vineyard. Supposedly, here in the dark recess of the ground, the wizards know as blending masters (BM) call upon ancient arts of alchemy to convert crushed grape juice from the noble Pinot Noirs, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay vines from a wide range of years to produce a true Champagne product. Okay, I admit that some of these BMs can produce good wine but there is only so much you can do with mediocre grapes. In short, the BM's job is to homogenize the wine, using the stronger years to hide the flaws of the weaker years thus maintaining a continuity of quality in the product that will perform reliably.
Contradicting what these massive champagne houses amazing PR machines have put out that blending non-vintages is the true nature of Champagne sparklers, why the heck are we paying $180-$250 a bottle for the vintage stuff like Dom Perignon and Veuve Clicquot Le Grande Dame etc.
I say thee nay! As a little green, dyslexic jedi grandmaster once said, "there is another."
The secret then is to track down the source of these better vineyards which provide the quality crop. The vineyards owned by generations of winemakers whose knowledge of how the terroir affects their crop in ways only time and patience can teach. Where flavor and longevity are as distinctive as the very years they are grown. Imagine paying a third what you would pay for a Tete Cuvee from the major negociant Champagne houses and getting the same quality sparkler and many times even surpassing those. My friends I give you the best values in Champagne, the "grower" Champagnes.
The names like Vilmart, Aubry, Pierre Peters, Gaston- Chiquet and Lallement to name a few were growers, whose champagnes I had been tracking since I learned of their existence over 5 years ago.
I actually had a friend take a Henri Billiot Cuvee Julie (named after HB's first grand child and was all 1999 fruit although it doesn't say on the bottle and was the first of his champagnes to actually see any oak aging.) to a party for Thanksgiving and opened it up next to 2 other big dogs the Cristal and the Dom Perignon P. The crowd favorite was the Billiot.
So I say we celebrate this coming holidays and New Year even though the dollar is tanking and gas will hit $100 a barrell. We never ever have to sacrifice hedonistic flavor and quality if you have Grower Champagnes in your hand. Cheers!
Monday, November 12, 2007
What's in a name
It's been several months since I've launched The Wine Zen Fine wine courses. I've tried to make the classes as informative as well as entertaining in order to shed the skin of "snootiness" that surrounds the subject of wine.
First up, let me be clear that I do not claim to be a "Zen Master" nor do I wish to put out the notion that I know all there is to know about wine. I am merely pointing out that I am actively seeking out new information and wish to pass it on to others. Only when we realize that we are wanting in knowledge can we hope to grow in it.
I am glad to say that as an idea it has done its part in promoting the appreciation and consumption of this often misunderstood and feared beverage. However, there is only so much one individual can do.
Hopefully this blog will give me a more efficient channel to all who seek to learn about wine and I hope we can all have fun learning about wine.
First up, let me be clear that I do not claim to be a "Zen Master" nor do I wish to put out the notion that I know all there is to know about wine. I am merely pointing out that I am actively seeking out new information and wish to pass it on to others. Only when we realize that we are wanting in knowledge can we hope to grow in it.
I am glad to say that as an idea it has done its part in promoting the appreciation and consumption of this often misunderstood and feared beverage. However, there is only so much one individual can do.
Hopefully this blog will give me a more efficient channel to all who seek to learn about wine and I hope we can all have fun learning about wine.
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