Chilean Winery Viña Errazuriz Steps up to the Plate with Don Maximiano

When someone tells me they are looking for Chilean wine, an image conjures up in my mind of a bountiful land that possesses amazing variety of terrain, soil  content and weather and, most often, cheap swill wine.

There is such a thing as having too much of a good thing and when you do there is a tendency to take things for granted. I mean so what if your land is blessed with a sandy type soil that survived, phylloxera, the great wine plague that almost wiped out all the wine grapes. So what if you were blessed with a country that span the North South latitude plain that allowed you to take advantage of micro changes in the weather area by the choosing to go North or South. Yup. Too many blessings can make a winery a tad bit complacent and too reliant on mass-produced wines that are not too exciting but decent.

But what if....

A winery chose to step up to the plate and decided to raise the standards and to believe in their own sense of identity and legacy of quality...Enter Viña Errazuriz's Don Maximiano line of wines. Named after the winery's founder Don Maximiano Errázuriz, who decided to build the winery in the Aconcagua Valley, 100 km North of the capital, Santiago.

His Mottto, " From the best land, comes the best wine."

A man committed to quality but beset with tragedy ( His wife, Amalia, died shortly after giving birth to their only son Rafael. So sad! Go read about it at www.errazuriz.com ), Don Maximiano Errázuriz spared no expense building this operation that soon began sourcing from the best vineyards in the Aconcagua, Casablanca and Curicó Valleys.

The company is now tended to by the fifth generation of his family, Eduardo Chadwick. Interesting note, in 2005, Decanter magazine named Eduardo Chadwick one of the top 50 most influential people in wine. Eduardo was instrumental in getting the Don Maximiano quality to its soaring heights today.

At the famous Berlin Tasting of 2004,  the company's icon 2000 and 2001 vintage wines, Viñedo Chadwick, Seña and Don Maximiano, smashed the ultra premium barrier with their stunning blind tasting victory  over the other super sluggers of Cabernet based wines from other famous  wine growing regions, Château Latour, Château Margaux and Château Lafite-Rothschild. They also beat the Italian cult Cab wines, Tignanello , Sassicaia, Solaia and Guado al Tasso solidifying Chile's reputation as a super premium wine producer.

The tasting was at Zebra Square near Jalan Tun Razak, KL as you turn off to go to Kampung Pandan.

Here is a line-up of the wines we tasted.

Although I have sold Viña Errazuriz wine before when I worked the wine retail circles of Texas, I have not had the pleasure of tasting their higher end stuff. So when the chance came in the form of an Invitation to taste 4 vintages from their library collections of Don Maximiano line, you can bet the Wine Zen got a little giddy.

Couldn't help taking a selfie...

The seminar was guided by Mr. Nicolas Happke, Viñedo Chadwick's (Errazuriz's parent company) are manager for South East Asia. Definitely someone you want to come listen to when he talks about high end Chilean wines.

This my tasting video of the Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve 1989

The Wine Zen Tastes Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve 1989


Tasting Score Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve 1989
Nose = 8  Taste = 7  Body = 7  Tanin/Acidity Balance = 8  Finish= 8
Notes:  Good nose of Black Cherry and tobacco leaf. Flavours from the nose translate well onto the palate in a nice medium bodied frame. The tannins and acidity are still balanced enough to drink but the wine won't get any better with further ageing. Clocked in at a 30 second on its cool cherry finish. Drink and enjoy its gifts now! Some bitter-sweet dark chocolate with this wine would be heavenly!
Total points: 88 points

Next is my tasting video of my favourite wine of the day, Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve 1999. This wine is the precursor of the great 2000 that would kick butt at the Berlin Tasting 2004. It was gorgeous so I can only imagine the 2000 vintage.

The Wine Zen tastes Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve 1999

Tasting Score Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve 1999
Nose = 8  Taste = 8  Body = 7  Tanin/Acidity Balance = 8  Finish= 8
Notes:  The nose was elegant notes of cassis, blackberry and was still hiding something else. The palate translated the flavours well with an additional hint of ripe plum. The mid palate was good and rich  but never becoming overtly heavy. The balanced tannin and acidity saw to it that the flavours served in a medium bodied frame. The finish was reminiscent of classified St Julien. A good 35 to 40 seconds of pure bliss.
This wine was my favourite of the day.
Harmony Bonus Points: +1
Total points: 90 points

At this point I have to apologize as I had a little accident at the tasting that caused a huge mess on my shirt and table which ruined my shooting of the Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve 2010 and the Kai 2010 Carmenère. But here are their tasting scores anyway.

Tasting Score for Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve 2010
Nose = 8  Taste = 7  Body = 7  Tanin/Acidity Balance = 7  Finish= 8
Notes:  Here it was year where the blend was altered to include local Carmenère and Syrah which I found to be quite unusual. But this was the winery's decision to make their wines more approachable younger.  Black fruits mingled with blueberries and cherries on the nose. Leading to a much more juicy, fruity mid-palate bursting with red and black cherries intermingled with a little spicy notes. Medium bodied with mellow, low acid balance. Finishes respectably at 30-35 secs. Its a good effort and tasted well but my least favourite of the day. Especially if it was following in the footsteps of the 1999.
Harmony Bonus Points:
Total points: 87 points

Tasting Score for Kai Carmenère 2010 ( Kai means plant in aboriginal Chilean.)
Nose = 7  Taste = 8.5  Body = 7  Tanin/Acidity Balance = 8.5  Finish= 8.5
Notes:  As far as Carmenères go I rarely find one I like but the Kai was a damn good one. Herbs and bittersweet chocolate slowly express themselves from the glass after much coaxing. (The wine is still a baby and needs more time). On the palate it surprises with red fruits and flowery notes laced with the herbs. Excellent balanced tannins and acidity in medium bodied package. This could have very easily gone wrong and overdone but it prevailed all the way through showing even more complex nuances of pencil shavings, dark berry and Indian spice on its 35 second finish.
Harmony Bonus Points: + 0.5
Total points: 90 points


At the end of the tasting, the Chilean Ambassador to Malaysia, His Excellency Mr. Christian Rehren makes an impromptu thank you speech to all the participants.

Great, educational tasting. Thank you Asia Euro for the invite.

Notes and Instructions to the Wine Zen Method of Evaluation: 
Assuming the wines tasted are not flawed due to cork taint, heat damage or other obvious defects,
50 points is awarded automatically. The wine is then judged based on its:
a) nose
b) taste
c) body
d) balance of tannin & acidity
e) finish or length (time measured 20 -25 seconds being a standard good finish)

Each tasting dimension is scored from a scale of 1-10. For example, if a wine was more full bodied, it would tend to have a higher score of 8-10. If it were a lighter bodied wine it would receive a lower score of 1-4. Adding up the scores together should give you a total of points out of 100 for a maximum (which very, very rarely happens).

The Twist
Please note that sometimes wines are meant to be leaner or lighter or more elegant or less tannic or acidic. Does that mean they are poorly made, absolutely not. So I have incorporated an extra tasting aspect called Integration. After breaking down the wine to into its tasting components and evaluating them individually, I use this last category to see how all the components work together. Harmony is what I will be looking for. Extra points can be given from this category to make up for shortage of points from the other categories to give a more accurate representation of the wines.

Odds & Ends of Evaluation
Please note that although the wine appearance can be an important aspect. I have found that with modern wine making, the old adage of "you can't judge a book by its cover" rings very like a church bell. A wine can have a gorgeous colour but not deliver the quality and vice versa. So when judging the wine, appearance is used to assess if the wine is obviously flawed and if it is worthy of consumption.
In this writers humble opinion, finishes are generally the tell tale signs of a well-made wine. Nose and taste can be muted due to youthfulness of the wine or can be manipulated but you can't hide the flaws of a wine in the finish yet. An abrupt or short finish reveals a shortcoming in fruit quality and like an abrupt conversation can be quite rude. A good finish tends to be a gradual process allowing the wine flavours to fade gently from your palate. The best finishes are not only long and gradual but have what I call "shift time" ability, where the wine makes you forget how long you have been tasting it.

Please let me know if you have any comments or thoughts on this post. I'd love to hear from you!

Selamat Berjuang!

An awesome thing happened today on my way to Crystal Crown Hotel for an appointment. I took a taxi as it was raining and I was even more thankful that my turn to flag a taxi didn’t get jumped by desperate people getting out of the rain. I climbed into the front seat of a taxi and began the process of getting stopped at every light as the taxi began the crawl from PJ Hilton to Crystal Crown Hotel in the heavy traffic.

The taxi driver, Abdullah, was a Malay man in his early forties. A friendly man too as he cordially asked me, “You reporter ke?”

Chuckled, I examined my casual Friday attire and realized combined with a beat-up, ratty knapsack like the one I was carrying, you might as well give me an Al-Jazeera card and a microphone and it is Jonathan Cheah live on the scene for me.

I answered him jokingly, “Bukanlah . . . Nampak macam saje. Sekarang fashion mah” (No, . . . just look like one. It’s fashionable now.) We both had a quick laugh but I suspect that the taxi driver had something he wanted to share but was hesitant. I figured I would get the conversation going and decided to risk going a little further.

“Sekarang jadi wartawan pun susah kat Malaysia. Kalau dari luar negera, kena bantai polis dan kalau dari akhbar tempatan , gaji sikit kerana semua orang tak baca surat khabar tempatan pun. Semua orang tak percaya. . .semua surat khabar besar milik BN punya.” ( Its hard for a journalist in Malaysia. If you are from overseas, the ploice beat you up and if you are from local newspapers, your pay is low because nobody reads the local newspapers anymore. Nobody believes them. . . all the mainstream newspapers are owned by Barisan Nasional .)

To which Abdullah replied, “ Yalah. Macam Star, semua bohong punya. Utusan Malaysia jugak tak guna. Sama jugak.” He continued, “ Tak tahu si Najib ini macam mana nak tunjuk muka. Rakyat sendiri pun belasah.” (Yes. Take the Star, its all lies. Utusan Malaysia is useless also. Don’t know how Najib can show his face. Even our own citizens are beaten.)

Then I asked him, “Bang ada pergi Bersih 3.0 tak?” (Sir, did you go to Bersih 3.0?)
His response was an emphatic, “Pergi!” (Went!) he said proudly. 

That was it.

A 10 minute car ride became an energetic conversation about the state of the government and how they would use their control of the main stream media to spread its disinformation and are now getting caught lying by the international watchdogs. We talked about the need to change the current bloated and corrupt federal government. 

We even exchanged our own war stories about that day. Where we were when the tear gas hit. Who was with us that day. Abdullah was in the crowd at Masjid Jamek with his two children. I told him I was near the frontline at Jalan Tun Perak with my wife when the police fired their tear gas without warning. He was surprised that my wife, Pleasance Chong, was with me. 

He was impressed, “Wah…You punya bini memang kuat semangat.” (Your wife has strong spirit)

I told him, “Kalau kita tak lawan mereka, siapa nak lawan? (If we don’t fight them, who will?)

I continued, “Bila wakil rakyat rasa rakyat hutang mereka dan bukan sebaliknya, itulah masa kena tukar.” (when it our representatives feel the electorate owes them and not the other way around, its time for change.)

Abdullah agreed. Next thing you know we had arrived at the Crystal Crown hotel.

If you had told me 10 years ago that I would have an adult conversation about politics and race relations not only with a man of Malay descent let alone a stranger, I would have thought you lived in La La Land. But today, we were not a Chinese man and a Malay man talking to each other. We looked beyond the colour of our skins and saw each other as fellow Malaysians. Fellow Malaysians in the fight to save our country from the arrogant and corrupt politicians who have been in power for more than half a century and have bled the country dry. It was a beautifully moving experience for me and I thank my lucky stars that I was alive to see this change in my country.

When I settled the bill with him and he looked to me with his arm extended.

“Selamat Berjuang!” He said with a firm handshake and the look of determination in his eyes. 

I smiled and replied, “Selamat Berjuang! My Malaysian brother!” (Keep on fighting!)

(All it takes for Evil to exist is when good people fail to act.)

Culture Shock

Some folks told me to watch out for culture shock when you deal with Malaysians. Speaking as a Malaysian I thought to myself, how can a Malaysian get CS from Malaysia. Then recent events led me to believe that it wasn't culture shock I had to get over but just the shock of witnessing nonchalance. Being now a part of the Malaysian wine and spirits industry, I was invited along with many of my team members to a seminar hosted by one of our most important suppliers.

I was naturally excited as the venue was a location I have not been to in over 14 years. Plus I wanted to get to know the brands we represented. It turned out to be pretty disappointing. Most of the presenters merely read from their Power Point presentations with hardly any elaboration or connection to how we could use all this information. Some even concentrated their presentations to cover material that was hardly relevant to our industry achieving its goals of achieving efficiency or increasing sales.

Most I could forgive because sometimes the audience wasn't really paying attention. But I was. I had driven 1 hour out of the city up to this venue on a Saturday afternoon. I expected much, much more. Perhaps too much for this group. I'm sorry when you are covering the presentation of wines, you should know the case production of the winery you are talking about. Period! I've worked in the wine and spirit industry for over 10 years now. That isn't and shouldn't be something I have to ask for. It is declared very early on so that one can make an accurate decision on how hard to place their brands in the market. No, not only did they not have the information but I was surprised to hear their response to my question.

A high ranking manager voiced out in a sarcastic tone, "We haven't got a clue!" I could hardly believe my ears. Here I am sitting sitting in a room hoping to learn a few things while I am sacrificing my weekend and the best response, this multi-national-company could come up with was that. Not even the courtesy response of public speaking 101, "I'm sorry, I don't have that information. Perhaps I can find out and let you know later?" was not used. And that was from the top management team in the room. Next thing I knew, another gentleman rises up from the back and singles me out with a shout saying, "you tell me much you want and we can get it for you." Talk about overcompensating for bruised ego. I just wanted to know the winery's production capability.

It just shocks me the level of professionalism that was lacking in the room by the hosts. Needless to say I left the room shortly after the lame presentation was over (which felt like an eternity). I guess they thought they could have gotten away with putting up a sub-standard seminar and thought I was being the smart-ass trying to stump them. If we as the Malaysian Wine and Spirits Industry want to get better at what we are doing, we have to grow up and start listening to one another and to the customers needs. A well educated market is a profitable market.

One things for sure, I doubt I'll be invited to the next seminar by these jokers and thank God, I get to keep my weekend.

All things aside there was one good seminar on Scotch and I learnt a couple of things from that one presenter.

The Wine Zen Relocates

After, almost 14 years of life in Fort Worth, the Wine Zen is relocating to Malaysia. Some developments you can make work and some you just can't. I can't say it is the best time for a move but I do know what my priorities in life are. 

Family before all else. For the folks who have supported and gotten to know me, you would know that nothing is more dear to me than my family. My daughter just turned 2 in April and my wife has been separated, physically but maintains a wonderful relationship that is, from her family for about 12 years.  So I figured I had given my plan a go for over 10 years in the USA, a refreshing change seemd in order. 

I can't say that it was an easy decision to uproot a family and drag them quite literally halfway around the world. I shall miss my friends, work colleagues and the other wonderful personalities that have populated this, my favorite industry. But I plan to take what I have learnt and see if I can be of service to the people on this side of the world.

Once I recover from jet lag and begin exploring this new surroundings, I will begin reposting anew.  I am also working on a new online project that will let you find a wine anywhere in the world. That is the goal anyway. Until then, the Wine Zen is always at your service and remember  life is too short to drink bad wine.

Knowing Enough to Drive Off A Cliff

When I was a fledgling wine steward trying to earn my wings, my wine director, aka my boss; aka "such-a-character-he-merits-his-own-book," told us in a wine consultant meeting about this occasional specimen of humanity that comes into ones wine department and plays "Stump the Wine Guy." Being as green as I was all those years past, I felt my defenses go up as I knew my relatively new confidence was held ever fragile by my passion to learn. At this point, I knew I would not be ready if I found myself thrust into a situation where I had to defend my wine knowledge and recommendations.

That gave me the drive to seek out more knowledge and information about wine because as fearful as it made me, I was also excited at the prospect of meeting this challenge. I imagined the sense of pride if I would have felt if I could defend my positions like a debate team creaming their opponents; with methodical, precision strikes and yes, glee. Sadly or I should say, fortunately, I have never had to go to those extremes. The customers I have served since have been a wonderful lot and were eager to learn what I had gleaned from wine makers ,books and the internet.

I have since developed a more mature approach to my methods often giving the customers the benefit that I may also learn something through my discourse with them about wine. It has proven very useful as until now I find that I still can learn one or two new things every other day from my customers.

It was shortly after noon on Wednesday 2/24/2009. GM, I'm sure it wasn't his real name or it was haphazardly abbreviated) walked into my store almost with his chest stuck out (although I think his pot belly was doing a better job) and his hands in his pockets. He was man of average height with a heavy build in his late 40s dressed in an old work shirt and even older blue jeans. He had a bright red baseball cap on, the ones you get when you attend a company function. I saw him from the other side of the store but I did not think much of him as I was heading up to the office to finish some paper work.

In the midst of my tasks, I was paged to come help a customer on the floor from one of the staff. GM was holding a bottle of Beringer White Zinfandel 1.5L. At first, I greeted him cordially and asked how I could be of assistance. The first thing I realized about GM was that he comes uncomfortably close to you when he shook your hand, barely gets your name when you give it and he tells the story of his name like he had rehearsed it a thousand times and still get the punchline to the joke wrong. ("Like General Motors" was the punchline) Okay. sometimes we get drunks here and this guy definitely fit the bill. But instead of removing him from my store, which was well within my rights, I allowed this conversation to continue.

What I thought was a normal request for my assistance turned out to be long drawn out Q&A session about tannins, how blush wine is made, dryness levels, health from wines and other minutia that will test the most patient Buddhist monks. The sad thing about it was that it wasn't even a real intellectual discussion more like a "look-what-I-know about..." while claiming to have had what he thought was rare and expensive wine. (Chateau Greysac is not rare and expensive wine, though it is a good one. I think it was one of the few wines he could remember). He even told me that I was not the wine guy and that I want to be the wine guy. At which I promptly corrected him and proved it by answering two more wine questions he threw at me. The last straw was when he told me the Mouton Cadet had nothing to do with Barone Phillippe de Rothschilde. I went into overdrive and explained the connection and differences between the Pauillac property, Mouton Rothschilde and the Bordeaux AOC Mouton Cadet. I bitched slapped this guy's ignorance to the ground and body slammed his ass out of the ring, metaphorically anyway. Mind you, all this done with a smile on my face masking seething rage at this guy's audacity to come into my workplace, take up almost 30 minutes of my time exclusively (there were other customers waiting), insulting my professional credibility and not having the decency to admit to his own flawed logic.

He did eventually make a decison and bought a Lindeman South Australia Cabernet Sauvignon 1.5L and seemed happy about it. I, on the other hand felt that this was not the "victory" I had wanted to realize when I was staring out in my career in this industry. It was an unfair match-up and GM was outclassed.

It did, however, impressed upon me (after I had calmed down later) the need to educate everyone about this subject. Not just the completely new but this lot which I like to call the KEDOC customer or the "Know Enough to Drive Off a Cliff, the one who is not completely ignorant of wine but has enough information to be dangerous as he can lead others to the join him over that cliff.

New Orleans CMS Class Aftermath

This was a reply I got from the CMS Master Sommelier, Tim Gaiser. Apparently, they read the blog and wanted to clarify some information with me. Bear in mind, I had wound up at the last row of the class because the Marriot sent me on a wild goose chase about the class' location. So the Wine Zen couldn't really hear all of the information as clearly as he would like plus the breakneck speed of the class didn't help. So I apologize for getting some of the names wrong on the initial blog (heck! how could I have forgotten to include Guy, the MS from Texas.) So my thanks goes out to Tim for his help in keeping the Wine Zen accurate.

Now all I have to do is convince some of these cognac producers to take a refresher class.



On Mon, Feb 9, 2009 at 8:25 AM,

Jonathan, hope all is well. Your latest blog post came up via Google alerts yesterday. Thanks for all the good comments about the class. Much appreciated. I did want to get back to you with some corrections in terms of the content. The instructors included myself, Randa Warren, Brian Koziol, and Guy Stout. To your point, there are over 750 slides presented during the two days and that’s a lot of information—hence the outline hand out that’s taken directly from the PPT. We don’t give students a print out of the PPT for obvious reasons—with the notes form of PPT there would still be well over 250 pages—a lot of wasted paper, certainly environmentally unsound, and a logistically challenging. Also to your point, the CMAA people were given a heads up on what to study several weeks before the class and also a general idea of how the two days would proceed. They also paid more for the class simply because their tuition included meals for both days and a reception after the end of the class--all set up through the CMAA. Keep in mind they were taking the class for credit towards a specific CMAA accreditation. As for other comments, the Cognac subzones are indeed correct and taken from AOC law. The Domaine Baumard you mentioned is from Savennieres and not Sancerre—a totally different animal. Otherwise, thanks again for your time in taking the class and also for posting comments. Please let me know if you have any questions.

My Reply:

Thank you for the corrections. I am honored you took the time to view my blog and offered objective view points to help us all in our journey to enjoy wine.

In New Orleans with the Court of Masters Sommeliers

After 3 days and 2 nights, the Wine Zen is ready to get home. The classes for the Court of Masters Sommeliers Introductory Course were long and there was barely enough time to cover everything we needed to know about wine, let alone spirits, beers and sake. A portion of the class, I was looking forward to learning, cigars, was cancelled flat out.

4 Master Sommeliers Tim Gaiser, Randa Warren, Guy Stout, Brian Koziol, ran the class as well as they could. Tim, Randa and Guy were the veteran MS-es and were able to pull information from their vast stores of travel experience. Brian did not have their vast personal experiences but he made up for it in technical expertise and sheer passion. Everything was there, the professionals and information but the weak link was time. Quite literally it was like taking sips of water from a fire hose.

I pity the folks who came here and thought they were going to be spoon-fed information while having their hands held for this mind job of a class. The frustration started to mount as almost all of the 45+ participants told me that they barely had time to take any notes as frames of PowerPoint slides just zipped by on an average of 20 seconds. I think some were ready to write letters to the CMS through their organizations. In a partial defense to the CMS, people were warned though to do their pre-class readings at least a month ahead of the class date. Of course it would be better if the schedules for 2009 classes came out earlier than the end of December 2008. Still we were warned nevertheless.

With wine retail it isn't as if December was a free time for me, I had managed to skim through most of my reading material and most of the information was already active and used everyday. Still I knew where my weaknesses lay, Burgundy, Italy and Spain. Thankfully, when it came to exam time, these regions were covered pretty generally. I disagreed with some of the information in the course. For example, the classifications for Cognac the CMS listed were very different from the ones actual cognac producers told me. So it boils down to believing the people how learn and teach about cognac or believing the people who actually make and sell the stuff for decades.

The blind tasting portions of the class although not part of the test were a good peek into what was expected of you if you wanted to be a certified sommelier. I must admit, I was not at the top of my game. I had been tasting wine all this time from the stand point of enjoyment and price to quality ratios, not playing guess the wine. So I had to dust off the sections I had long ignored , the visual aspect. To me if a wine tasted good you won't be able to see it go down in your mouth anyway. Furthermore, wine makers everywhere are using a variety of new techniques to make a wine look how they want it to look. One particular white wine I thought was incredibly complex was a Savennieres. It actually threw off blue cheese notes. All the MS-es loved it and it was a fabulous wine but I knew that the majority of the folks would not like this wine. When a vote was taken in the room, 80% did not like the wine. It was the Domaine des Baumard Savennieres 2004. Just goes to show you that it still takes courage to make wine that are really terroir driven. Especially when nobody understands that terroir.

Still the frustration built up so much from striking out so much that there was a time where I questioned my faith in my abilities and my career choice. Then came the last set of wines of 2 whites and 2 reds. I got them all right down to the varietals, region and even vintage, something I have always had a problem doing blind. (Whew! Now I don't have to take a welding course and do construction.)

So yours truly is now one step closer to being a certified sommelier. I think the classes were informative and fun but I couldn't shake the nagging feeling that for almost $500 per person and having to fly to New Orleans and book a room at the hotel, the least the CMS could do was give us a copy of the PowerPoint slides in print. We didn't get to keep that. Still it could be worse, I could have been part of another group there that had a joint function with CMS and had pay close to $900 per person. Yikes!