It has been a while since I have posted a blog and I must say that it has been quite a hectic year so far for 2008. After being plucked from a true dream job and brought back down to earth with a crashing thud, writing about wine was the last thing on my mind. There are no hard feelings between both parties (former employer and employee), in fact a return option has been left open. So I am kind of on-the-fence about things.
That's when I started thinking about wine consumers I have encountered who have "trouble committing"... to wine varietals that is. Yes, fans. In these days of endless rows of Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots from just about every wine growing region that takes a seedling to produce flavors that fit almost anywhere in the grapes' (Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots,) profiles . . . whew!. . . . . . people still can't make up their minds which ones they like.
To all of you on-the-fencers out there, let me say this to you:
God Bless You! Yes, thank you for your hesitance. Thank you for encouraging even more diversity and choice on the wine shelves. Thank you for keeping the wine industry on their toes and away from the evil that is complacency.
This being said, this ambiguity can also take extreme forms. Everyone has heard of the wine drinkers who drink nothing but Cabernet Sauvignon whilst turning up their noses to Merlot claiming that Merlot is an unworthy wine. There are also those who say Cabernet Sauvignon is too strong, too bitter and thus prefer the suppleness and approachability of a Merlot, as if they were greeted on the palate like an old friend. (Interesting note: the CS extremists fall in love with Chateau Petrus, when they have had it, not knowing, that the dang thing is 100% Merlot!)
So what does one do to appease the likes of such camps and bring peace to the dining room? I give you the on-the-fence varietals: Malbec and Carmenere. I have discovered that these two varietals have been perfect olive branch holders when it comes to wine tasting events before the two camps start throwing wine charms at each other and start quoting Miles from "Sideways."
Malbec can have some of the suppleness and fruit-forward aspects of Merlot while still able to coat one's palate with ample tannin. Being a varietal that has spent a considerable part of its existence in Bordeaux where it played second fiddle to CS and Merlot. (I say second fiddle because in some sub-appelations, Merlot or Cab is king) It was used primarily as a blending grape and its much longer ripening time made it the ideal candidate to contribute acidity to the blend. Its time came when South America, namely Argentina, began cultivating the grape and gave it all the time it needed, letting Malbec shed its shy and plodding youth to reveal a brooding, sexy, almost hedonistic quality. Aromas of ripe fruit like dark cherries, plums and even blueberries could be found in a Malbec laced with bittersweet chocolate and hints of coffee and other earthier flavors.
Carménère is an edgier number that has quite a bit more zip on the palate. The Bordelais vintners gave up on Carménère almost 130 years ago, when they were willing to sacrifice the option of using the grape and uprooting the plants, if it meant keeping phyloxera away from their vineyards. Apparently, Carménère had an uncanny ability to attract the dreaded louse from miles away and thus destroying the vineyards of its owners. This varietal would have been extinct if it did not find its way to the isolated lands of Chile. Here the sandy soils makes life very difficult for the phyloxera louse and thus Carménère was freed from its curse and allowed to flourish. Earth tones dominate this lost Bordeaux varietal. It seldom makes a full-bodied wine but the the flavors of liqorice, coffee, dark chocolate and mushrooms make this wine an interesting drink. This helps those who are sensitive to tannin break out of the safe Merlot confines and enjoy some more tannic wines without being overwhelmed by them.
The next time, you have a get-together bring ample on-the-fence varietals to supplement your CS or Merlot preferences. So nobody has to say: "I'm not f***ing drinking any ......" (you-fill-in-the blank)
Peace be with you and Joyful drinking!
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
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